Note: The BLOUSE ARMHOLE BINDING (4) is made longer than you actually need
in order to give you extra fabric at each end to grip while sewing through all the layers.
1. Fold in and press the two long edges to meet in the center.
2. Fold lengthwise long sides together with one side slightly narrower than the other. The edges of the binding do not meet exactly. The side that is slightly smaller will go on the right side. The underside edge is slightly larger to make catching that edge easier while sewing.
3. Pin the binding in place with the wider edge of the binding to the underside of the armhole. Topstitch the binding in place on both armholes.
4. Trim off the excess binding on each end of the armholes.
5. Press the facing to the inside along the facing line as shown on the pattern so the top (pressed under) edge is parallel with the shoulder seam and the bottom hem edge is parallel with the hem.
This step establishes the front opening edge of your blouse.
6. Unfold the facings, staystitch and clip the entire neck edge including the neck curves of the facings.
7. Match the center back of the collar to the center back of the blouse and pin in place with the facings unfolded.
8. Sew the collar in place with the edge of the collar as close to the front opening crease as possible.
9. Right sides together, stitch the facing in place along the neck edge making sure you have it folded in reverse precisely along the crease with the folded edge still aligned with the shoulder seam.
10. Clean finish the neck edge with a small zigzag stitch and trim the corner of the facing the same way you trimmed the corners on the collar before turning.
11. Fold the facing edge to the inside and tack in place with a few hand stitches. Press everything well.
12. On the outside below the seam line, topstitch between the shoulder seams through all layers to finish and keep the neck seam laying flat on the inside.
|CLASS 86 INDEX