Notice how the the base of the overlap forms into a point where the two meet.

Turn the overlap up and notice how it looks from the back side. Where I have placed the dash marks is where you will be sewing across the base of the overlap to hold the two together to form your placket later.

21. Finish the hem edges with a rolled machine or surger hem. Add flat lace trim or try out the 'push ruffle' method on the hems.

22. With the legs flat one on top of the other, make a clip through both layers 1" above the finished hem. The clip marks will be your guide to form the elastic casing. Below the casing, the fabric and lace will become the pantaloon ruffle.

23. Using the clip mark on each side as your fold guide, fold the hem up towards the right side. Straight stitch a 1/4" wide casing in each leg on the inside.

24. For the next step you'll need a pencil, a tube turner or something to pull the elastic through the narrow casing, 1/8" elastic or narrow ribbon to measure the dolls leg, and a ruler to measure and mark the elastic.

25. Using the 1/8" elastic or the narrow ribbon, measure the leg just below the knee.

26. Mark the elasic with the leg measurement, leaving 1" of extra elastic at each end.

27. With the tube turner, draw the elastic into the casing and secure the first end.

28. Pull the elastic through the casing, gathering as you go, until you can see the second pencil mark. Secure.

29. From the right side the casing will be invisible and will simple look like a single line of gathered stitches.

30. Sew the center back seam up to the clip.

31. Clip to the stitching.

32. Trim the seam down to 1/8".

33. Finish the raw edge of the seam with zigzag or serger.

34. Flip out the end of the opening overlap and stitch across through both layers to the point of the clip.

35. Stitch the entire inseam.

36. At the base of each leg, trim back at an angle.

37. Finish the seam.

38. On the doll, pull the elastic casing up to below the knee. The pantaloons will billow out above the knee.

39. Finish the back opening with a snap, button, or ribbon ties. Overlap will be more than 1/4" in order to give you the option of having loose fitting pantaloons in order to make less bulk around the waist if desired.