1. On the Jacket Front, starting with the open lower dart, make a clip mark as shown in the picture. Stitch the lower dart, stretching the short side of the dart out to meet the other side.
2. Press all jacket front darts as shown by the arrows in the photo.
3. Stitch the shoulder dart and waist dart on the Jacket Back.
Clip out a 'V' of fabric in the middle of the waist dart to make it lay correctly when pressed.
4. Stitch the jacket front to the Jacket back at the shoulder seams.
5. Staystitch the arm hole openings.
The armhole needs to be clipped enough to form a straight sewing line when spread out.
6. Stitch the two darts on the back edge of each Sleeve.
7. Stitch two gathering lines between the clip marks on the top edge of the sleeve.
8. Not all fabric will need the hem edge of the sleeve interfaced to stabalize it, but it is good for fabrics that tend to fray. Cut a thin 1/4" strip of light weight iron-on interfacing.
9. Finish the hem edge of the sleeve with a surger or small zig-zag.
10. Pull the two bobbin threads at the same time, one from each row of gathering stitches, to gather the sleeve top smoothly.
Setting In the Sleeves
11. When the sleeve top has been gathered to the right size, pin the sleeve to the armhole, spreading out the armhole clips to the maximum.
12. Stitch the sleeve to the jacket bodice from the armhole side, turning as needed and keeping the sleeve top as smooth as possible underneath.
13. Stitch the sleeve seam and side seam together as one.
14. Fold the sleeve hem to the inside and hand hem.
|CLASS 22 INDEX