Lesson 2

With photo's and instructions
by Marsha Olson
(printout 11 pages)

General Sewing Tip:
When working with such small pieces of fabric, it is important to know which is the right side and which is the wrong as fabric has an automatic 'curl' that can be taken advantage of in finishing these small garments. When pulled slightly on the bias, fabric will 'curl' towards the wrong side. This 'curl' helps a great deal when you are making french seams, finishing raw seams by hand, or in hemming.
Make small clips at the bottom of the dart. Mark the point of the dart with a pin.
To find the point of the dart, fold the dart in half matching the clips.
Pick up just a few threads of the fabric when marking the dart point.
Reposition the pin so it can be used as your stitching guide.
Press darts towards side seams.
Stitch front to back at shoulder seams.
General Sewing Tip:
When lockstitching any seam, place the lockstitch 1/4" in from the edge where the seams will meet as some seams get trimmed and you may lose your lockstitch if it is too near the cut edge and your seam may start to come apart.

General Sewing Tip:
After stitching any seam, trim the ends off at angles. This eliminates unnessesary bulk and makes for a neater finished appearance.
Press seams open.
Pin bodice to lining.
Stitch bodice to lining at back openings and around the neck edge. Make sharp corners.
Clip in to corners, trimming clips out at angles. Trim seam ends off at angles.
Turn and press. Make sure you get the corners turned sharply.
Staystitch the armholes. Clip every 1/4".

Purchased bias tape can be used for finishing the armhole edges, or you can make your own from the dress fabric by cutting two strips on the bias.
Check the 'curl' of the fabric to make sure it will curl over to the inside after stitching. Pin the armhole to the bias strip, starting about a half inch from the end of the strip. Stitch the bias strip to the clipped armhole edge. Leave some extra strip at both ends.
Do not trim off the long ends of the strip yet, you will find it easier to roll over if you have some waste fabric to start with.
Trim the seam down close to the stitching.
Press under 1/8" on the raw edge of the bias strip. Roll it over entirely to the inside and hold with a few pins to get started.
Use a small whipstitch to sew the bias strip edge down neatly.
Alternate Finishing:
For a more professional appearance on the right side, do not roll the bias strip over entirely. Leave enough showing on the outside to give the appearance of a piped edge.
Pin side seams and stitch. Trim seam ends and finish with a narrow zig-zag.
Alternate finishing method:
We can take this one step furthur for a more professional clean seam finishing method. Trim one side of the seam down to the stitching.
Roll the raw edge under.
Finish with a small whipstitch.

Cut 2 collars and 2 linings from the dress
fabric. Pin collars to linings.
Right sides together, stitch collars to
linings leaving the rounded end open
for turning. Trim corners and seams.
Clip the inner curve.
Turn and press.
Lay the two open ends together.
Using a long stitch, make two rows
of gathering stitches.
Pull the gathering stitches tightly
and tie off at each end.
Mark the center front of the bodice.
Center the collar and stitch.
Try the bodice on the doll at this point.
There are several ways the collar can be
positioned, overlap the back opening,
choose where you think the collar looks
best and pin it down to the back.
Take a few hand stitches to hold the
collar in place.
Your bodice is finished!

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