Before unpinning your pattern piece, make small clips into the seam allowance
to mark where each pleat gets folded. Also notch the center back to mark it.
Take special note of the arrow directions for the pleats.
1. Following the guide lines on the pattern piece, pin the pleats in place and staystitch within the 1/4" seam allowance. These are 'soft' pleats, do not press them.
2. From the right side, pin the pleated section in place.
If you placed all your pleats correctly, the piece should fit perfectly. If you do need to make adjustments for a better fit, make the adjustments evenly to both pleats on either sides of center back pleat.
3. Topstitch or sew the pleated section in place with the invisible slip stitch.
When finished, your coat should look something like the photo below.
4. If you have slip stitched the pleated back piece in by hand, you may also use a topstitch as shown below for a decorative look.
Since I am using silk for my coat, I am leaving it plain with no topstitching for a dressy look. Depending on the fabric and color you have chosen, a contrasting color for the topstitch might give it a little more casual, sporty, or schoolgirl look. Your choice!
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