This blouse has no darts. The front fullness is achieved by gathering the neck edge of the blouse front between the clip marks.
BLOUSE FRONT and BACK
1.Right sides together, sew the front to the back at the shoulder seams. Trim the seam down to 1/8" and finish with a narrow zigzag stitch. Press the seams towards the back.
2. Staystitch and clip the armholes.
3. Run a double row of gathering stitches between the clip marks at the neck. Staystitch the rest of the neck on either side of the clip marks. Clip to the staystitching.
4. Double-fold and press the back opening edges.
5. Pull the neck front gathering stitches tightly and tie off on the inside.
6. Matching center fronts and right sides together, sew the collar to the blouse neck edge.
7. Leaving the collar folded down, fold the excess back fabric right sides together over the ends of the collar and stitch in place. Trim the seam and clean finish. Trim off the end corners.
8. Unfold the turned-in back edges so the collar stands up.
9. Finish the back opening edges by hand or topstitch.
10. Run a double row of long gathering stitches along the curved edge of the sleeve cap.
11. Finish the hem edge of the sleeve with a narrow rolled hem or a narrow serger edge.
12. Trim the hem with flat or ruffled lace sewn on with a narrow zigzag or by hand. If you 'push' flat lace while you are sewing in on with a zigzag stitch, it will ruffle slightly. It's a very nice heirloom look.
13. To gather the sleeve cap evenly, fold the sleeve in half and pull the four bobbin threads (2 at each end) all at the same time.
14. Pin the sleeve in place and sew the sleeve to the armhole. Trim the seam and clean finish.
15. Sew the sleeve and side seams. Trim and clean finish.
16. Turn the blouse right side out and finish the bottom edge with a rolled hem edge by hand or topstitch.
17. Finish the neckband opening with buttons, beads, pearls, or button and loop closures; as many as will fit. Finish the back opening with sew-on snaps.
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