Choosing your sleeve size will depend on which fabric you have chosen to use. If you are using cotton batiste with lace insets, it is recommended that you choose the smaller of the two sleeve patterns. The larger pattern will accomodate voile in that voile is a thinner fabric and can be gathered more tightly, making a much fuller 'puff' at the crown of the sleeve.
Exploring the possibilities for sleeve trim will be interesting, so many options are available. Two inset lace options are shown on the sleeve pattern, but many more are possible:
The inset lace line options shown on the sleeve pattern are 'either-or' and not intendeded to be used together in the same design. Ruffled lace along the edges of the flat inset lace can also be added for more visual interest.
Consider using strips of shirred (evenly gathered at the top and bottom) fabric instead of lace. Or, if you are really getting into the inset lace, sew many strips of lace between equal strips of fabric, then cut the sleeves on the bias so all the strips run diagonally. How delightful!
Those are just a few options, use your imagination.
YOUR INSET LACE WORK IS ALWAYS DONE
BEFORE CUTTING OUT YOUR SLEEVE
Chevron Lace Inset
1. Using 3/4" or 1" wide flat inset lace (both edges straight), spray starch the lace and steam press it until it is quite stiff. You may have to do this several times if the lace is very finely woven and thin. You will need 11 inches for the small size sleeve.
Choose a center between two of the flowers in the lace so that the design will be even on both sides of the point.
2. On your padded ironing board, pin the lace right side down to the pattern in the chevron shape.
3. At the center pin the excess lace to come to a point.
4. Straight stitch on the diagonal to create your point. Trim the seam down to 1/4" and cut open the fold of the lace in the seam.
5. Press the seam open.
6. From the right side, zigzag over the seam using a very narrow tight zigzag stitch. On the wrong side, trim the excess seam off down to the edge of the zigzag stitch so that nothing shows but the seam line.
7. Starch a piece of fabric the size of your sleeve. Using the sleeve pattern underneath, center and pin the lace chevron in place on the fabric. Following the edge of the lace, straight stitch the bottom edge of the chevron to the fabric.
8. Carefully trim the fabric 1/4" from the stitching.
9. Clip to the chevron point and press the 1/4" excess away from the lace.
10. On the right side, zigzag over the straight stitch, catching the edge of the lace. Trim away the 1/4" edge of fabric.
11. Using the piece of fabric you cut out of the top earlier, pin the fabric into place along the top edge of the lace leaving at least a 1/4" overlap.
12. Straight stitch the top edge of the chevron in place, press the fabric edge away from the lace, zigzag from the right side over the straight stitch.
13. Trim away the excess down to the stitching.
14. Pin the pattern to the fabric matching up the chevrons and cut each sleeve out separately.
THE FINISHED INSET LACE CHEVRON:
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