Style 29 Lesson 6
Lining the Square Neck
With photo's and instructions by
Marsha Olson
(printout is 5-6 pages)

Lining the square neck dress calls for more hand sewing than the jewel neck
only if you have used piping. The neck can be sewn by machine with no piping.


1. Staystitch the curved edges of
the side back. Clip the curves.

2. Pin the side backs to the backs
starting from the hem edge and
working your way up. Make sure
you end up with both top edges at
the same distance from the
shoulder seams.
3. Stitch the side backs to the
backs up to 1/4" from the top
edge of the back.
The last 1/4" will be left open.
4. Press the top edge of the
back in 1/4". Press the side
back seams towards the side
seams. Press the raw edges of
the side back pieces, above
where they are sewn to the back,
in 1/4" up to the shoulder seams.

5. Construct the front and side
fronts in the same way. Pressing
the raw edges in 1/4".

7.Stitch the front and back
together at the shoulder seam,
pressing the seam open and
repressing the raw edge in.

8. Staystitch the armholes and clip.

9. Using the line of staystitching as
your guide, press the clipped
edge of the armhole back evenly.
10. Open the pressed edges
of the armhole. Stitch the side
seams of the lining together.
Press the side seams open,
repressing the armhole edge in
as needed.

11. Right sides together, pin the lining
to the dress along all edges even the hem to hold
it in place. It is very important to make sure
you keep the edges perfectly matched from now on.

Note: the overlap side is
the edge that makes a straight line,
in the finished dress, from the neck
down to the hem. The extension
side is the edge that gets
overlapped and hidden.

12. On the overlap side, clip at
an angle at the bottom of the
extension. Stitch from the
point of the clip up to the
pressed fold line at the top.
It will be about a 1/2" wide seam.

13. Trim off the excess extension
material from the clip on up.

14. On the extension side,
stitch from the point of the
angled clip out to the 1/4" mark,
turn a sharp corner and continue
up to within 1/4" of the top.
Stop on the pressed fold line.
15. Stitch the center back seams of
the dress and lining separately,
matching the stitched ends of
the overlap and extension. Do a
few stitches by hand at the top
of each center back seam if all
the seams do not meet perfectly.
Press the center back seams open.
16. Turn the dress and lining to be
in position, slipping the armholes
into place. Press the back overlap
and extension edges.
17. Line up the neck edges
along the top edges of the back
closely and pin into place, turning
in the pressed edges to meet.
18. The pressed edges of
the lining around the neckline
will be matched to the 'ditch'
of the piping on the inside.
The piping will show both on
the inside and the outside.
19. Hand finish by
stitching the lining down
around the entire neckline
and armhole.
20. Press the dress hem
up 1/4" or more as desired for
the length you want. Press the
lining up 1/8" more than the
dress. Finish by hand, matching
the seams.

End Style 29 Lesson 6

Kitty's finished dress

click picture to enlarge

You are visitor number