Style 29 Lesson 5
Setting in Full Sleeves
With photo's and instructions by
Marsha Olson
(printout is 5 pages)

This lesson is my personal addition to the class and these instructions
are not included in the written instructions that came with your pattern.
As you will see, you will be learning a rather different method of lining the sleeves
that will give you a beautiful couture sleeve finish.

1. Fold out the piped seam
allowance. Pin the back section
in place. Stitch from the hem
up to within 1/4" of the top
leaving the last 1/4" open
to turn in.

2. Press the top edge of the
back section down 1/4".

3. Staystitch the armholes.
Clip to the stitching.

4. Cut 2 Sleeves using the full
sleeve pattern. Cut 2 Linings using
the tight sleeve pattern in the
same length.

5. Run double rows of gathering
stitches along the cap of the sleeve
and lining.
6. Run double rows of gathering
stitches along the hem edge of the

7. Gather the hem edge of the sleeve
down to fit the hem edge of the lining.
Right sides together, pin to the hem
edge of the lining.
8. Stitch in place, matching the edges.

9. Press the sleeve hem with the
seam allowance towards the lining.

Tip: With some fabrics the gathering
may not want to stay in place. Pull
both sets of gathering threads to the
wrong side on one end and tie them
together. Pull the gathering threads
just from the other end.
7. Open out the armhole and pin it
down while you are gathering the cap
of the sleeve so you can compare the
two and get the gathered cap exactly
the same width as the armhole.
8. Once you have the cap gathered down
to match the armhole, you can tie off
the other end of the gathering stitches
from the wrong side of the cap. This
keeps the gathering from sliding out
as you are sewing. Spread the gathers
out evenly.
9. Pin the cap of the sleeve to
the armhole and stitch in place from
the sleeve side taking care not to
catch any of the gathers. 10. Clip to the stitching on the
underarm curve. Seam will be pressed
towards the dress.
11. Fold the lining away from the
sleeve and stitch the entire sleeve
and side seam. Clip curves and press
seam open up to the underarm seam.
For those who want a closer fit, take
a 3/8" seam from the armhole to the hem.

12. Pull the sleeve lining up over
the sleeve and stitch down by hand
to hold in place. Stitch only through
the seam allowance on the cap, not to
the dress itself.

13. Assemble the lining following the dress instructions.
The lining will be inserted as normal, machine stitching
the hem and following the back opening instructions given
in Lesson 3. Press the shoulder edges, the front edge,
and the armhole edges of the lining in 1/4" and hand
stitch around the entire neck opening and sleeve cap.
Finish with snaps down the back opening.

End Style 29 Lesson 5

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