Perfect Patterns
Project Pattern # 2022 Lesson 2

With photographs and instructions
by Marsha Olson
(printout 6-7 pages)

1. On the Jacket Front, starting with the open lower dart, make a clip mark as shown in the picture. Stitch the lower dart, stretching the short side of the dart out to meet the other side.
This dart style creates an elegant waist curve.
Stitch the long narrow shoulder darts, marking the point with a pin.
Stitch the bust dart.
2. Press all jacket front darts as shown by the arrows in the photo.
Clip open the point of the lower dart and press open.
3. Stitch the shoulder dart and waist dart on the Jacket Back.
Stitch the center back seam.
Clip center back seam at 1/4" intervals.
Press darts as shown.
Clip out a 'V' of fabric in the middle of the waist dart to make it lay correctly when pressed.
4. Stitch the jacket front to the Jacket back at the shoulder seams.
Press seams open.
5. Staystitch the arm hole openings.
Clip every 1/4" or less.
The armhole needs to be clipped enough to form a straight sewing line when spread out.
6. Stitch the two darts on the back edge of each Sleeve.
Press darts away from each other.

7. Stitch two gathering lines between the clip marks on the top edge of the sleeve.
Leave pull threads hanging at each end.
8. Not all fabric will need the hem edge of the sleeve interfaced to stabalize it, but it is good for fabrics that tend to fray. Cut a thin 1/4" strip of light weight iron-on interfacing.
9. Finish the hem edge of the sleeve with a surger or small zig-zag.
Press the hem up 1/4" to the inside.
10. Pull the two bobbin threads at the same time, one from each row of gathering stitches, to gather the sleeve top smoothly.
Using the small gathering stitches allows for a smoother gather, but they are a little harder to pull, so be gentle or you may break a thread.
Setting In the Sleeves
11. When the sleeve top has been gathered to the right size, pin the sleeve to the armhole, spreading out the armhole clips to the maximum.
12. Stitch the sleeve to the jacket bodice from the armhole side, turning as needed and keeping the sleeve top as smooth as possible underneath.
After stitching, check for gathering stitches or staystitching on the outside and remove those threads.
13. Stitch the sleeve seam and side seam together as one.
Decide now as to whether or not you wish to line the sleeves or not.
Instructions will be for unlined sleeves.
Press open the sleeve and side seams.
14. Fold the sleeve hem to the inside and hand hem.
Check the fit.
The lower front dart should end nearly at the peak of the bust.

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