A New Way of Lining
follow along on your printed pattern instruction sheet
(printout 6 pages)
Materials: bleached muslin, thread, small sew-on snaps
Check the settings on your sewing machine to make sure the settings you usually use to sew a 1/4" seam are true. Sew a 1/4" seam on a the edge of a piece of copy paper and measure it. The slightest deviation can affect the fit on couture doll clothes patterns.

Use Pattern Pieces:
4. Straight Skirt Front View B
5. Straight Skirt Back View B
6. Straight Skirt Back View B Lining
7. Waistband View B
8. Waistband View B Lining

The pattern pieces for the skirt front and waistband are the same as for View A, but the waistband for this skirt will end up being twice as wide and will sit squarely at the center of the waist of the doll instead of slightly below as on View A.
Skirt View B has a more professional and beautiful lining finish.

Photo for this lesson: Inside view before finishing the back opening but after finishing the waistband.

1. Following the dart instructions detailed in View A, sew all the darts in the skirt and lining pieces. Press the darts towards the side seams using a hot steam iron and a pressing ham to get the curves to press in without any puckers or pleats at the point end of the dart.

2. Right sides together, sew the Skirt Front to the Skirt Back at the side seams. Clip the seams at the hip curves and press the seams open.

3. Sew the lining pieces together exactly the same way you sewed the skirt following the dart and side seam instructions.
Notice that the skirt and lining are not the same size. The skirt will be wider so attend to the special assembly instructions.

4. Sew the lining to the skirt on each back opening edge, moving the lining into place so that part of the skirt is turned under.
Match up the side seams and darts on the lining to the skirt and refold the edge portions of the skirt until they are equal on both sides and sew together at the hem edge leaving the waist edge open to turn.

5. Trim the two corners at the hem edge of the skirt. (SEE PHOTO ABOVE)

6. Turn the skirt right side out and press the back opening edges in place so the edges turn under to the inside of the skirt.
The hem edge is also pulled up slightly to the inside about 1/8" at the center and tapering to the seam at the ends.

Close-up of the hem and how it tapers towards the ends:

You will notice when you smooth the lining up and turn the skirt over to the right side that because we folded the hem up to the inside we now have excess lining at the waist edge. We will want to trim that off after staystitching the skirt and lining together along that edge.

7. Staystitch the skirt waist edge within the seam allowance or no more than 1/4" away from the raw edge of the skirt ignoring the excess lining. Trim off the excess lining. Clip to the stitching.

Staystitching should be done within the seam allowance above the actual 1/4" stitching line so that the staystitching will not show after sewing on the waistband. If you use a long running stitch similar to a gathering stitch, you will easily be able to pull out the staystitching after sewing the first waistband seam. This tip applies to any staystitching on any garment.

Preparing and Sewing the Waistband

8. Sew the lining to the waistband along one long edge. Press the entire seam towards the lining.

9. Press the long edge of the waistband lining under 1/4".

10. Right sides together, match the center of the raw edge of the waistband to the center front of the skirt and pin in place. There will be a 1/4" overhang of the waistband at each end. Pin the waistband in place and sew the waistband to the skirt.

11. Press the corners of the overhang in.

12. Turn and press the overhang ends in so they line up as closely as possible to the back opening edge of the skirt.
Notice in the photo below that the line of staystitching is above the seam.

13. Turn the pressed edge of the lining to the inside and match the pressed edge to the line of seam stitching.
Pin the entire waistband in place and make sure everything matches up and the waistband is laying smoothly before you start finishing.

Since the waistband lining piece is narrower than the waistband it very neatly turns 1/8" of the waistband to the inside so no lining can show from the outside. This is a lovely couture waistband finish and works beautifully on full size clothing.

14. Finish the inside of the waistband, including slipstitching the short ends, by hand.
Reminder: Take photo now.

15. Overlap the back opening edges of the skirt by 1/4" matching the waistband and hem edges. Sew the skirt back opening together between the marks using an invisible slipstitch. Slipstitch the back seam on the inside also.

16. Finish the opening with a sew-on snap at the waist and the two snaps marked on the skirt back pattern.
If the opening is not laying flat or seems too long you can add another snap by moving them closer together.