Using Perfect Patterns
(printout 3 pages)

I don't know if my pattern rules hold true for patterns made by others and so may only apply to mine, but I have tried to make them as easy to use and understand as possible. I have never 'listed' my rules as such before, but thought this project was a good time to start as some of you are just beginning to use Perfect Patterns. I will probably miss a few of 'rules' and may add to this page as the project progresses. When I first started making Perfect Patterns I had no rules except what I remembered from my own learning days, it took a while for me to work them out so some of my early patterns are very crude. In fact, some of my oldest patterns did not even have the sewing lines marked, but I am working to update all of them as time allows. This whole exercise seems to be working out as a great refresher for my own memory also.

All my patterns have a 1/4" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated on the pattern piece.
Whether the sewing lines are marked or not, the seam allowance is included on each piece so you will never have to add a seam allowance.
  1. Cutting lines are solid. Hem fold lines in unlined garments are also solid but thinner than a cutting line. In lined garments the hem line will be marked as a regular sewing line.
  2. Sewing lines are marked with a small dashed line.
  3. Gathering lines are marked with a longer dashed line.
  4. Pieces are numbered in order of use.
  5. Grainlines are marked on each piece.
  6. Pleat lines are marked with the arrow pointing in the direction the fold of the pleat has to go.
I will use illustrations as much as possible to make the rules visual and easy to understand.

Grain Lines In Woven Fabrics
Lengthwise grain refers to the threads in fabric which run the length of the fabric, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Crosswise grain are the threads that run perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric or the cut edge of the fabric as it comes off the bolt.

Bias grain is the thread line that is at a right angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric as it is on the bolt. The bias has stretch in woven fabric and will hang differently than a garment that has been cut on the straight or crosswise grain.

When you are working with woven fabric, the lengthwise and crosswise grain will not have any stretch. Depending on the tightness of the weave the fabric may have a slight amount of "give" but it will not stretch. The Bias grain however will stretch, making the bias grain perfect for couture areas such as covering cording to create your own piping which we commonly do with doll clothes as purchased piping is usually too large.

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